What’s on offer depends on season and what the climate’s been up to. A bad cherry year? Don’t look for quantities of cherry-embracing vermouth. Do look for what’s been in season, turned into a vermouth that needs no mixing with base spirits – Now, that sounds witchy: Out, base spirits. When you’re sipping a pour of Miraglia’s batch-made rhubarb vermouth, however, you won’t be craving an added dollop of whisky or rye.

That isn’t to say that you can’t mix wildflower vermouth with gin or lavender and Serrano vermouth with good brown liquors. When you get good ingredients, you can make exceptional cocktails, and it’s natural to want to blend and create. But with vermouth this good, you don’t have to.