Be they aperitifs or digestifs, these are drinks with a purpose. “Physiologically,” Teague says, nudging a bottle of craft bitters into place, “they do the same thing to us. Your brain perceives bitter as poison. It’s a biological imperative.” That it is; our aversion to bitterness is a heritage from hunter-gatherer ancestors whose skill in avoiding toxic and unripe foods conferred an edge in survival. Ours is a species fond of sugar and fat.

“We seek out sugar for two reasons,” Teague says. “One: Generally speaking, on planet Earth, what is sweet is not, in fact, poison. Two: Sweet things are calorically dense and good for growth and survival.”

Current science allows that we can taste five flavors: sweet, sour, salt, umami and bitter. “Of the five,” Teaque says brightly. “only one is an acquired taste.”

In flavors as in business, acquisition takes time. A customer may claim to dislike Fernet Branca, having tried it only one time. Once, in Teague’s world, is not enough. “I’ll suggest trying it again. And again, three weeks later. And then again, maybe three weeks after that. And again, one more time.” When it comes to bitterness, you have to train your brain.

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