The business was founded in 2010. For one happy borough, 2010 was a very good year for wine. That October, Brooklyn Winery was brand new. “We didn’t have any wines of our own,” says Conor McCormack, Brooklyn Winery’s hard-working, smart and affable head winemaker, “so we populated it with wines from around the world.” As McCormack produced wine, sourced bottles gave way to the winery’s own. Since last September, all of the wines on offer have been Brooklyn babies. This is one place where you want to order the house wine. That’s why you’re there, after all.

If you can catch a moment with McCormack, then do ask him about wine – but don’t stop there. In source or age, every piece of wood in sight and every grape in a barrel has a story. Ask about the wood that forms the bar, or the vintage sewing machine gears under the tables. “The whole building has an interesting story,” McCormack says. It would be as honest to say “the whole business”.