If vermouth ever crosses the average drinker's mind (or lips) it's in regard to the martini, preferably dosed in stinting quantities. But in Spain the fortified wine gets a little more respect, as an aperitif often served straight or on the rocks. Enter Huertas, a terrific new Basque spot in the East Village that's making its own vermouth and serving it on tap.

Bartender Natalie Czech tells us the spot is beer-and-wine-only for now, so they're starting with a base of sherry — itself already a fortified wine — and adding fruit and other things to the mix. The result is bracing yet acidic and a bit fruity, with a distinct sherry taste that arrives at the end. It's delicious sipped alone, or better yet, on the rocks with an orange twist. Huertas also offers a spin on the Spanish spritzer Tinto de Verano: club soda and the ruby-colored vermut over ice, a fizzy refresher.

The rest of the bar's "Refrescos," as its light-bodied, on-the-rocks cocktails are called, are a Spanish answer to aperitivo hour: lightly boozy and refreshing — good early evening tipples that won't have you toppling off the barstool before dinner. The Kalimoxto (pronounced "kalimocho," which is how it's spelled in most parts of Spain) is an unlikely yet winning mix of red wine and Coca-Cola, while Agua de Valencia — sparkling wine with craft orange soda — recalls a lighter-bodied mimosa.

As a further boon to pre-meal drinkers, servers make rounds offering Basque-style pinxtos ("pinchos"), one- or two-bite tapas that cost a few dollars a pop. You might encounter garlic-scape puree with quail egg on toast, anchovies on a skewer, or asparagus wrapped in house-made duck ham, and you'll want to eat them all. On the menu of raciones, or larger plates, the Huertas Rotos — potato strands topped with chorizo and a poached egg — is spin on carbonara, and totally irresistible. There's a daily-changing Menu del Dia, served in a back room, a bargain at $52 for four courses. It's the kind of place you might come in for a drink or two and end up staying all night — and still feel okay the next day.

Huertas, 107 First Ave., 212-228-4490, huertasnyc.com

Photo: Huertas